Iffiachine foe sewing on the soles of shoes and the lixe



A. & S. l. G. JOHANSSON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES 0F SHOES AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 18, 1911. 1,193,900.

Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

5 $HEET$SHEET I.

A. & S. I. G. .IOHANSSON. MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES 0F SHOES AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR-18 I91]. 1,193,900. Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

5 SHEETS$HEET 2.

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A. & S. l. G. JOHANSSON'.

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES 0F SHOES AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. I8. I9II.

l 1 93,906. Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

A. & S. l. G. JOHANSSON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES 0F SHOES AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR.18,1911- 1,193,900. Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

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5 SHEETS-SHEET 5. 95

A. & S. l. G. JOHANSSON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES 0F SHOES AND THE LIKE. l APPLICATION FILED MAR-18. I911.

ITED STATES PATENT ALEXANDER JOHANSSON AND SVEN IVAR GOSTA JOHANSSON, OF GOTTENBORG, SWEDEN, ASSIGNORS TO ALBERT M. I-IOYT, OF SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS.

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON THE SOLES OF SHOES AND THE LIKE.

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Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

Application filed March 18, 1911. Serial No. 615,399.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that we, ALEXANDER J OHANS- SON and Swan IvAn Gos'rA J oHANssoN, citizens of Sweden, residing at Gottenborg, in the Kingdom of Sweden, have invented new and useful Improvements in and Relating to Machines for Sewing on the Soles of Shoes and the like, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates particularly to machines for sewing the soles of boots and shoes to the welt by means of a lock stitch and embodying in their construction an awl for penetrating and feeding the work and a barbed needle and shuttle with coacting mechanisms for handling the thread, said barbed needle being actuated by a crank and connecting rod to execute a reciprocatory motion and cause said needle to penetrate the work through the hole previously punched in said work by the awl.

The machine is particularly adapted for repair work in sewing a half sole to the welt.

The object of the machines is to provide a durable rapid working and eflicient machine for the purpose stated and one which can be manufactured at comparatively small expense.

The invention consists in the combination and arrangement of parts set forth in the following specification and particularly pointed out in the claims thereof.

Referring to the drawings: Figure 1 is a side elevation of our improved sewing machine as viewed from the right hand side of said machine, parts being brokenaway to save space in the drawings. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same. Fig. 3 is a vfront elevation. Fig. A is a side elevation viewed from the left hand side of the machine, parts being broken away to save space in the drawings. Figs. 5 and 6 are detail views illustrating the needle segment lever and other parts of the stitch forming mechanism in different positions. Fig. 7 is a detail elevation viewed from the front of the machine illustrating the means for positioning the tilting support upon which the awl and presser foot are mounted. Fig. 8 is a side elevation viewed in the same direction as Fig. 4: illustrating the thread clamping lever and a portion of the take-up lever in different positions. Fig. 9 is a detail sectional view illustrating the cam lever whereby motion is imparted to said tilting support.

Fig. 10 is a side elevation of a portion of the mechanism for operating a shuttle thread hook. Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are detail sectional views illustrating the shuttle thread hook in different positions relatively to the shuttle.

Like numerals refer to like parts throughout the several views of the drawings.

In the drawings: 1 is the frame of the machine.

2 and 3 are brackets fast thereto.

5 is a support mounted to tilt or rock upon pins 4 (see Figs. 1, 3 and 7). A work-support 6 is fastened to the brackets 2 and 3 and is inclined to a horizontal plane. Said work-support projects upward slightly at its front edge and is provided adjacent to said front edge with an aperture 7 through which an awl 8 and needle 9 project at certain times during the operation of the machine. The inclination of said work-support 6 at an angle positions the work so that it is more convenient and in better position for observation by the operator.

The needle 9 is curved and is provided upon its inner edge with a hook. Said needle is fastened to a needle segment lever 10 pivoted to a stud 14 which is supported upon the bracket 3. Said needle segment lever is located inside the said bracket 3 and closely adjacent tothe same (see Figs. 2 and 3). A rocking motion is imparted to said needle segment lever 10 whereby a reciprocatory motion is imparted to the needle in the direction of its length by means of a connecting rod 11 and crank-shaft 12, said connecting rod being connected to said needle segment by a pin 15, (see Fig. 4). A rotary motion is imparted to the crankshaft 12 by a pulley 13.

The awl 8 is fastened to an arm 16, the opposite end of which is pivoted at 17 to the support 5. Said arm is connected to the needle segment 10 by a link 18. In order to allow a lateral tilting of the support 5 and yet not prevent the swinging of the arm 16 during the operation of the awl while penetrating the work and while being withdrawn therefrom, said link 18 is somewhat loosely connected to the arm 16 and to the needle segment lever 10 by screws 105 and 106, respectively. It will thus be seen that the awl 8 is moved toward and away from the work support 6 by the connecting rod 11, needle segment lever 10 and link 18.

From the tilting support 5 is also suspended a lever 20 which is pivoted on a stud 19 fast to-said tilting frame. Said lever has fastened thereto a presser foot 21 which operates to press the work against the bottom of the work support at the proper time during the working of the machine, as hereinafter more fully set forth. The lever 20 is connected by a link 22 with a lever 23 which is drawn toward the support 5 by a powerful adjustable spiral spring 24 while a lower cam-shape end 25 of said lever 23 presses against the periphery of a cam disk 26 fast to the crankshaft 12. The lever 23 is pivotally connected at 99 to a rearwardly extending arm on the support 5' (see dotted lines in Fig. 1).

A lever 28 is pivoted at its lower end at 98 to the support 5 and on the upper end of this lever is formed a toothed segment 29. This segment cooperates with a pawl 30 attached to one arm of a lever 31, said lever 31 being pivoted to a pin 100 fast to the sup- 7 port 5' (see Fig. 1). The opposite end of said pawl lever 31 is tapered off on an incline 32 over which, in certain positions of the lever 23, a pin 33 attached to said lever 23 travels. The lower end of the lever 28 is connected to the cam-shaped end of the formed in a bracket 101 which is fastened to lever 23 by a suitable spiral spring 34.

The link 22 is not directly connected to the lever 20 but is provided with a longitudinal slot 35 through which a pin 36 fast to the lever 20 passes in such a manner that said link 22 does not immediately set in motion the lever 20 when the lever 23 is oscillated but has a slack motion due to the length of the slot 35'. The link 22 is loosely connected to the lever 23 by a stud 107. Said link 22 may be forced against the lever 20 with more or less pressure by means of an adjusting nut 37 and an intermediate spiral spring 38.

The sewing thread 39, the guiding of which to the work-piece will be fully described hereinafter, passes through a tubular looper 40 immediately above the work-support 6. This looper is rigidly attached to an arm 41 which forms, in effect, a part thereof, said arm 41 projecting almost horizontally from a vertical rock-shaft 42 to which ,it is rigidly fastened. The rock-shaft 42 is journaled to rock in bearings 43, 44'on the bracket 3. The lower end of the rockshaft 42 is bent at an angle forming an arm 45 which projects into and is guided by means of an inclined slot 46. The slot 46 is the frame 1 (see Fig. 1).

The angle arm 45 is connected to a link 47 the opposite end of which isconnected by a pin 47 to a lever 48 pivotally mounted at v 48 to the frame 1. A cam roll 49 journaled on said lever 48 coeperates with a cam disk 50 fast: to the crankshaft 12. As the cam disk 50 rotates in the direction of the arrow bent lever 48 downwardly, whereupon said lever draws the link 47 toward the right (Fig; 1) and thus causes the arm 45 to move downwardly along the slot46. The arm 45 being aportion of the rod 42 it is evident that said rod will be rotated in its bearings 43 and 44 and at the same time will be reciprocated, due to the arm 45 moving clownwardly in the slot 46, so that the arm 41, with the looper 40, will be oscillated in the direction of the arrow A (Fig. 2). The looper is thus given a double 'motion, viz, a downward motion owing to the inclination of the slot 46, and a lateral motion owing to the rotationv of the rod 42 as illustrated in 'Figs. 3, 5 and 6, and more fully hereinafter Upon continued rotation of the 7 described. cam 50, the link 47 and also the arm 45, red 42, arm 41 and looper 40 are drawn back to their initial positions by a spiral spring 51.

A thread measuring finger a is pivoted at 108 to the work-support 6 and lies in a plane substantially parallel to the upper surface of said work-support. The free end of said thread measuring finger is formed in the shape of a hook adapted to engage the thread 39. Y Said thread measuring finger is provided with a curved slot 6 into which a pin 0 on the arm 41 projects, so that when said arm 41 swings upon its pivot it rocks the thread measuring finger a upon its pivot and moves it into the position illustrated in Figs. 3, 5 and 6.

The hereinbefore described lateral tilting of the support 5 is effected by means of a cam lever 53 which is pivoted at 109 to said tilting support (see Fig. 9) and has a cam roll 110 j ournaled thereon and normally held in engagement with a cam surface 52 provided on the cam disk 50 by a spring 114. When the cam surface '52 engages the roll 110 it moves the lever53 in; the direction in which the work is to be'fed or toward the left, as viewed from the front of the machine and during such movement said arm 53 engages a screw 54 having screw-threaded engagement with the tilting support 5. f When this occurs the tilting support is moved to rock the same upon its pivotal pins 4 to the position illustrated in Fig. 7. As soon as the cam '52 frees the lever 53 so that the same ceases to exert any pressure on the screw 54,

the tilting support 5 is moved back to its screw 55. For example, if the screw 55 is adjusted toward the right (Fig. 7) it is evident that the tilting frame will be moved by the spring B farther away from the needle and thus the awl will be moved farther away from said needle. It is, however, necessary that the awl should always be brought, at the end of the feeding movement, into alinement with the needle. This is accomplished after adjusting the set-screw 55 toward the right, as hereinbefore set forth, by the throw of the cam 52, the space between the end of thescrew 54 and that portion of the cam lever 53 which abuts thereagainst being less than before the screw 55 was adjusted and, therefore, the throw of said tilting frame will be greater because more of the throw of the cam and of the lever 53 will be utilized in moving said tilting frame on account of the fact that the lever 53 will come in contact with the screw 54 earlier during the rotation of the cam 52 than before said screw 55 was adjusted, as described. The set-screw 54 is brought nearer to that portion of the lever 53 which abuts thereagainst when the screw 55 is adjusted, as set forth, by the spring B overcoming the tension of the comparatively light spring 114 and pushing the tilting frame against the screw 55 while simultaneously it brings the end of the screw 54 nearer to the lever 53 which actuates the tilting frame. Thus by adjusting the screw 55 the tilting frame can be moved a greater or less extent as may be desired and thus a greater or less length of stitch may be obtained while the awl will be always brought to the same position at the end of the feed, namely, in alinement with the needle. It is evident also that any wear on the cam 52 may be compensated for by adjusting the set-screw 54.

A bracket 56 is fastened to the bracket 2 by means of screws 102 and 103 (Figs. 1 and 3) and is provided near the bottom thereof with two guide holes 57 and 58 for the thread 39 to pass through. Said bracket 56 is also provided at its upper end with a setscrew 59 and lock nut 60. This set-screw limits the motion of a pivoted lever 61 the lower end of which is corrugated at 62, said lower end being provided with a laterally displaceable disk 64 controlled by a spring 63. The lever 61 is pivoted to the bracket 2 by a stud 104 (Figs. 3, 4 and 8). A springcontrolled lever 65 (Fig. 4) is pivoted at 111 to the lever 61; one arm 65 of said lever 65 is engaged by a striker 66, while the second arm 67 of said lever 65 is pressed against the upper arm of the lever 61. The striker 66 is attached to a bell crank lever 68 which is pivoted at 68' to the frame of the machine.

One arm 69 of said bell crank lever is provided with a curved slot 70 in which slot works a crank-pin 71 attached to a crank disk 72 on the crank shaft 12. A second 112 fast to the upper end of the arm 77.

Said lever is provided with a roller 79 which projects into a curved slot 80 formed in an arm 80 projecting from the bracket 2. The

roller 79 fits the slot 80 for the greater part j of its length, but the forward end of said slot is enlarged at 81 for a purpose hereinafter described.

An arm 82 extends from the lever 78 and has fastened thereto at its lower end an inclined shuttle thread hook, 83. The point of said hook, when in the position shown in Figs. 1 and 4, lies close to the path of the needle 9. The motion of said arm, as shown in Figs. 10 to 13, will be more fully described hereinafter. By reference to Fig. 2 it will be seen thatv the lever 78 is inclined obliquely to the central vertical plane of the machine or to a plane parallel to the needle, and that the stud 112, which constitutes the axis of rotation of the lever 78, is arranged at an angle to said central vertical plane so that the arm 82 with the shuttle thread hook receives a motion with corresponding inclination to the central plane of the machine.

An arm 84 extends from the upper portion of the lever 78 above and into alinement with the connecting rod 11' and this arm is so arranged that during the combined move ment of said connecting rod 11 and the lever 78 said lever is lifted by reason of the arm 84 engaging the upper edge of the connecting rod 11 so that the roller 79 which at that time is in the widened portion 81 of the slot 80 leaves the lower edge of the slot and is controlled by the upper edge thereof.

The crank disk 72 is formed as a cam disk which co5perates with an arm 85 of a lever 86 pivoted at 113 to the bracket 2. This lever operates to take up the thread. The second arm 86 of said lever 86 is provided with two guide rollers 87 and 88 over which the thread 39 passes. ()n the bracket 2 is loosely mounted a shuttle 89 consisting of a cylinder which accommodates the under thread 90 which is suitably arranged in the shuttle for permitting the gradual feeding of the thread during the sewing. The shuttle is supported between ledges 96 on a bracket 96 fast to the bracket 2 (Figs. 11, 12 and 13) so that it can be easily withdrawn when required for inspection or for filling with new thread. The center line of the shuttle is directed obliquely inward and upfinally at the inner side of the bracket 56 and in the path of the corrugated portion 62 of the lever 61. From the hole58 the thread passes between the edge of the lever 61 and the disk 64 which is pressed against the same by the spring 63. Said thread then extends upwardly through holes 91, 92 and 93 in the upper end of the lever 61, thus arriving in the path of the arm 67 of the spring lever 65. From this point the thread passes around one roller 87 of the take-up lever 86, thence around a guide-roller 9 1 rotatably mounted on the bracket 2, and from said guide roller 94: said thread passes back around the second roller 88 of the thread. take-up lever 86. Said thread then passes upwardly over a'roller 95 mounted at the highest point of the bracket 2 from which it passes downwardly again through the looper 40, previously referred to, to the aperture 7 where it is engaged by the needle 9.

The general operation of the machine is as follows: The work d (Fig. 10) which ordinarily consists of the upper of a shoe with a welt attached thereto to which is to be sewn a new sole loosely placed above the same, is positioned against the under side of the work-support 6 by manually operating the lever 23 in the direction of the arrow C (Fig. 1), which action will cause the link 22 to draw the arm 20 backwardly so that the presser foot 21 will be moved down slightly from the work-support and thus leave a free space in which to insert the work between the work-support and the presser foot. The lever 23 is then released and the spring 2 1 draws it back. The link 23 after having moved approximately the length of the slot 25 presses back the lever 20 until the presser foot 21 is pressed against the lower side of the work and holds the same firmly against the worksupport 6. During this procedure the pawl 30 is dropped "into engagement with the toothed segment 29 and prevents the lever 28 from swinging backwardly and as said lever 28 presses against a projection 97 on the lever 20 near the pivot 98 of said lever 28 (Fig. 1) the presser foot 20 is securely locked in the desired position and holds the work firmly against the work-support. The

presser foot is released to unlock the work from the work-support when the lever 23 is moved backward so as to bring the pin 33 fast to said lever 23 in contact with the inclined portion 32 of the pawl lever 31, thus pressing the'pawl lever 31 downwardly and removing the pawl 30 from engagement with the toothed segment 29. As soon as the work has been clamped to the worksupport by the presser foot, as hereinbefore set forth, the machine is startedand the connecting rod 11 lifts the arm 16 and the awl 8 fast thereto by rocking the needle segment 10, thus moving the link 18 which connects the arm 16 to the needle segment 10 and causing the awl to penetrate the work. It will be understood that when the needle segment lever 10 is swung backward by meansof the connecting rod 11 from the position shown in Fig. 1 the pivotal pin or connection 106 of thelink 18 to the needle segment lever 10 moves backwardly and upwardly, thereby moving the link 18*upwardly and also the arm 16 with the awl attached thereto, so that said awl is forced upwardly and penetrates the work. As soon as the awl has penetrated the workthe cam 52 causes the support 5 to move toward the left (Fig. 2) and as the arm 16 is pivoted to said support at17, said arm, together with the awl, will move with the. support 5 to feed the work a distance corresponding to the throw which is imparted to the tiling support 5 by the cam 52. After the awl has fed the work as hereinbefore described, the direction of movement of the needle segment is reversed, due 'to the continuous movement of the connecting rod 11, and this causes the point of connection of the link 18 to the needle segment lever to move downwardly and thus through said link the awl-carrying arm 16 is moved downwardly and the awl withdrawn from the work while the needle is caused to penetrate the same, passing through the hole which has previously been punched in said work by the awl. The amount of motion of the tilting support 5, as hereinbefore set forth, is adjusted by screwing'the set screw 55 more or less toward or away from the needle or toward the left or right, respectively, "in Fig. 3, so that the starting position of the tilting support and the awl supported thereon is made closer to or farther away from the final position produced by the cam 52, thereby regulating the length of stitch. In order that the work should not participate .in the backward 'movement of the tilting support 5 and the presser foot 21, whereby the needle which at that time'is situated in the work would be subjected to excessive lateral strain, the

in the direction of the arrow C to such an extent that the pawl 30, by the operation of the pin 33, is lifted out of engagement with the toothed segment 29, but not to such 1 an extent that the link 22, owing to the slack I motion in the slot 35, is able torotate the lever 20. This latter falls back slightly but is supported to a slight extent by the spring 34: and presses the lever 28 against the arm 20 with a' yielding pressure. The

presser foot 21 exerts, therefore, a certain 130' pressure, although a yielding spring pressure, against the lower side of the work as the tilting support 5, the awl and the presser foot are moved backwardly or toward the right (Fig.

When the needle has penetrated the work its barb or open eye seizes the thread 39 lying above the work-support. This thread has just previously been held comparatively far out of the path of the needle by the uplifted thread looper 40 (Figs. 1, 2 and 3). When the needle has moved upwardly through the aperture in the work-support the looper 40 is moved toward the right (Fig. 3) and at the same time.is moved downwardly by the operation of the lever 48, link 47, arm 45, rock-shaft 42 and the arm 41. During this motion of the arm 41 the thread-measuring finger a, is moved in the opposite direction to that in which the looper is moved by reason of the pin which moves in the slot 6 in said thread measuring finger. During this movement the hook at the free end of the thread measuring finger engages the loop of thread (Fig. 5) and pulls it backward to the left. At the same time the looper carries the thread downward toward the right. The result is that the thread lies in front of the needle (Fig. 6) so that on a downward motion of the needle a loop is pulled down through the aperture in the work-support. The thread is thus measured out by the measuring finger so that the bight of thread laid across the needle will be pulled backwardly by the needle without rending in the barb of said needle.

As the needle moves downwardly through the work it, therefore, carries the bight or loop of thread with it and the shuttle thread hook now comes into action, seizes the loop (Fig. 10)

and draws it downwardly in a long bight over the shuttle 89 and over the under thread 90 contained in said shuttle (Fig. 11), whereupon the hook 83 then moves upwardly, so that the bight of thread passes completely over the shuttle (Fig. 12), whereupon the hook releases the thread, (Fig. 13). The said hook serves to hold the loop so as to enable the bight thereof to pass over the shuttle and the thread is then pulled taut by the take-up so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled up- I ward and into the work-piece, thus completing the stitch (Fig. 13) so that on the next motion of the needle another stitch may be formed in a similar manner.

The bro-ad shape of the hook 83, clearly shown in Fig. 3, makes possible the guiding of the thread around the shuttle by means of widening the bight to the necessary breadth. The peculiar movement of the hook 83 while it seizes the thread, its upward motion and backward motion around the shuttle and its final release are produced by the form of the slot 80 combined with the slot 74 in the arm 73, the pin 75 attached to the arm 77 moving therein, and also by the arm 84 which in a certain position as already stated is lifted up by the back of the connecting rod 11.

The looping and stretching 'of the thread, as well as its feeding forward, are produced by means of the take-up lever 86 in cooperation with the lever 61 and the bracket 56 in the following manner: During the drawing taut of the thread in order to complete the stitch the corrugated lower end 62 of the lever 61 is pressed a ainst the bracket 56 by means of a spring not shown in the drawings) but consisting of a small spiral spring that encircles the stud 104 (Fig. 4) and is covered by the nut. Thus the thread which passes backward and forward through the holes 57 and 58 is held fast. The pulling taut is then so carried out that the take-up lever 86 on its downward stroke (Fig. 4) pulls out the bight which has just been led around the shuttle by the hook 83, the pressure between the end 62 and the bracket 56 preventing a new supply of thread. During the forming of the thread bight, however, the take-up assumes the position illustrated in Fig. 8 and the lever 61 is operated by the striker arm 66 and the spring lever 65, so that its lower end 62 is removed from engagement with the bracket 56 and releases the thread at that point. At the same time, however, the arm 67 is pressed against the rear side of the lever 61, so that the length of thread between the holes 91, 92 and 93 and the disk 64 can move forward. The bight must, therefore, be formed from the thread lying between the upper end of the lever 61 and the take-up lever 86. The thread for the next stitch is fed forward by the longitudinal displacement between the end 62 of the lever 61 and the bracket 56 which takes place when the lever 61 is moved from the position shown in Fig. 4 to the position shown in Fig. 8. This displacement can be regulated to correspond to the desired length of stitch by adjusting the set-screw 59. The upward stroke of the take-up lever 86 is produced by means of the spiral spring (Z attached to said lever (see Fig. 4).

What we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a machine for the purpose described, the combination of a work-support having an aperture, a reciprocating awl, a reciprocating barbed needle; said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted hook above the work support, means for operating said looper and said hook in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle the hook is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a fixed. shuttle directed obliquely upward toward the aperture in the work support, a hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the-needle in a bight through the work, to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled up wardly, V

2. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory curved needle barbed onits inner edge and located on one side of said work-support, a looper through which the thread passes and a movable thread measuring finger located on the op, posite side of said works-support, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said looper across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in one direction and means connecting said looper and thread measuring finger constructed and arranged to move said finger across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in the opposite direction and between said worksupport and looper, whereby a bight of thread is fed to said needle.

3. A sewing machine having, in combina-v tion, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory curved needle barbed on its inner edge located on one side of said work-support and arranged to pass through said aperture, a pivotally mounted looper through which the thread passes, a pivotally mounted thread measuring finger located on the opposite side of said worksupport, mechanism constructed and ar, ranged to swing said looper across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in one direction and a projection on said looper extending into a slot provided in said thread measuring finger and constructed and arranged to move said finger across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in the opposite direction and between said work-support and looper, whereby a bight of thread may be fed to said needle.

4:. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support inclined to the horizontal plane and having an aperture therein, a rcciprocatory curved needle barbed on its inner edge located on one side of said worksupport and arranged to pass through said aperture, a looper through which the thread passes and a pivotally mounted thread measuring finger located on the opposite side of said work-support, a rock=shaft to which said looper is fastened, mechanism constructed and arranged to simultaneously rock and reciprocate said shaft whereby said looper may be moved at an angle to the horizontal plane across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in one direction and a pin on said looper projecting into a slot provided in said thread measuring finger and constructed and arranged to move said finger across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in the opposite direction and between said looper and worksupport, whereby a bight of thread may be is fastened, an arm on said rock-shaft projecting into an inclined slot provided in the frame of said machine, mechanism con structed and arranged to move said arm longitudinally of said slot, whereby said looper may be moved at an angle to the horizontal plane across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in one direction and means connecting said looper and said thread measuring finger constructed and arranged to move said finger across the path of said needle on the barbed side thereof in the opposite direction and between said. work-support and looper, whereby a bight of thread may be fed to said needle, v

.6, A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted measuring finger having a hook located above the work-support, means for operating said looper and said hook in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a fixed shuttle directed obliquely upward toward the aperture in the work support, a thread hook located below said work-support and mechanism constructed and arranged to move said thread hook forwardly and upwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release said bight behind the shuttle,

said mechanism comprising a stationary member provided with a slot, a lever to which said thread hook is fastened, said lever constructed and arranged to engage said slot, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said lever longitudinally of said slot and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

7. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and pen etrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted measuring finger having a hook located above the work-support, means for operating said looper and said hook in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread-measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a fixed shuttle directed obliquely upward toward the aperture in the work-support, a thread hook located below said work-support,

iechanism constructed and arranged to move said thread hook forwardly and upwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release said bight behind the shuttle, said mechanism comprising a stationary member provided with a slot, a lever to which said thread hookis fastened, said lever constructed and arranged to engage said slot, an arm on which said lever is pivoted, and mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a rocking movement to said arm, whereby said lever, with said projection, may be moved longitudinally of said slot and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled up wardly.

S. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory barbed needle, a le ver to which said needle is fastened, a crank, a rod connecting said crank to said needle lever, means constructed and arranged to feed thread to said needle after it has penetrated the work, a shuttle and a thread hook located beneath said work-support, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said. thread hook forwardly and upwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle,

said mechanism comprising a stationary member provided with a slot, a lever to which said thread hook is fastened, a roll on said lever, said roll constructed and ar-- ranged to engage said slot, a portion of said slot being of greater width than the diameter of said roll and mechanism constructed and arranged to move said lever with said roll longitudinally of said slot, said connecting rod being constructed and arranged to engage said lever during a portion of its movement through said enlarged portion of said slot and to release it during its return movement, whereby said thread hook may be moved as set forth, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

9. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory barbed needle located beneath said work-support and arranged to pass through said aperture, means located above said work-support constructed and arranged to feed a bight of thread to said needle when the same projects through said aperture, a shuttle and a thread hook lo cated beneath said work-support and mechanism constructed and arranged to move said thread hook forwardly and upwardly at an angle to a vertical plane parallel to said needle after the thread has been pulled by said needle in a bight through the work to seize said thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly, downwardly and at an angle to said plane around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

10. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes and a pivoted thread measuring finger having a hook located above the worksupport, means for operating said looper and said thread measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and )rings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a fixed shuttle directed obliquely upward toward the aperture in the work-support, a thread hook located below said work-support and mecha nism constructed and arranged to move said thread hook forwardly and upwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release said bight behind the shuttle, said mechanism comprising a stationary member provided with a slot, a lever to which said thread hook is fastened, said lever constructed and arranged to engage said slot, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said lever longitudinally of said slot at an angle to a vertical plane parallel to said needle and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly. v

11. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture therein, a reciprocatory awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted measuring finger having a hook located above the work-support, means for operating said looper and said thread measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a fixed shuttle directed obliquely upward toward the aperture in the work-support, a thread hook located below said work-support, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said thread hook forwardly and upwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize said thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release said bight behind the shuttle, said mechanism comprising a stationary member provided with a slot, a lever to which said thread hook is fastened, said lever constructed and arranged to engage said slot, mechanism constructed and arranged to move said lever longitudinally of said slot, said last-named mechanism comprising an arm, a pivot for said lever fast to said arm and extending at an angle to a vertical plane parallel to said needle, mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a rocking movement to said arm and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

12. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture, a reciprocatory barbed needle, said needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted thread measuring finger above the worksupport, means for operating said looper and said thread-measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is 7 turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a shuttle located beneath said work-support, a hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly. V Y

13. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture, an awl, a reciprocating barbed needle, mechanism constructed and arranged to reciprocate said awl in the direction of its length, mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a reciprocatory lateral motion to said awl to feed the work to said needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted thread-measuring finger above the work support having a hook on its'free end, means for operating said looper and said thread 100 measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same 105 into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a shuttle located beneath said work-support, a thread hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around theshuttle is pulled upwardly.

14. A sewing machine having, in combina tion, a work-support having an aperture, a presser foot constructed and arranged to hold the work against the under side of said work-support, an awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, mechanism constructed and arranged to reciprocate said awl in the direction of its length, mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a reciprocatory lat eral motion to said awl to feed the work to said needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged toswing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a

movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted thread-measuring finger above the work-support having a hook on its free end, means for operating said looper and said thread measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a shuttle located beneath said work-support, a thread hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

15. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture, a presser foot constructed and arranged to hold the work against the under side of said work-support, an awl, a reciprocatory barbed needle, mechanism constructed and arranged to reciprocate said awl in the direction of its length, mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a reciprocatory lateral motion to said presser foot and awl to feed the work to said needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted thread measuring finger above the worksupport having a hook on its free end, means for operating said looper and said thread measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the'needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a shuttle located beneath said work-support, a thread hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

16. A sewing machine having, in combination, a work-support having an aperture, a barbed needle, a presser foot constructed and arranged to .hold the work against the under side of said work-support, an awl, mechanism to impart a reciprocatory motion thereto in the direction of its length, mechanism constructed and arranged to impart a reciprocatory lateral motion to said presser foot and awl to feed the work to said needle, said awl and needle being constructed and arranged to swing and penetrate the work from the same side thereof, a movable looper through which the thread passes, a pivoted thread measuring finger above the work-support having a hook on its free end, means for operating said looper and said thread measuring finger in such manner that during the upward stroke of the needle said thread measuring finger is turned so that its hooked end crosses the end of the thread depending from the looper and brings the same into a bight in front of the barbed point of the needle, a shuttle located beneath said worksupport, a thread hook actuable forwardly after the thread has been pulled by the needle in a bight through the work, to seize the thread bight and draw it in a long loop backwardly and downwardly around the shuttle and to finally release the bight behind the shuttle, and a take-up for pulling the thread taut so that the bight which has caught the under thread during its motion around the shuttle is pulled upwardly.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALEXANDER .IQHANSSON. SVEN IVAR GOSTA JOHANSSON.

Witnesses GUSRAY Snrr, ERIC MOHOLM.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the "Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G. 

